How much time do you really spend reading books these days? With smartphones, laptops, streaming technology, and a million other fast-paced life distractions, the answer to this question is probably “not much.” But why not prioritize a little time for a good read when the waves are flat? Why shouldn’t you unplug for a moment, and indulge in the luxury that lies within a good novel or nonfiction tome – especially when the subject is surfing? We strongly advise you to take a vacation from social media and daily obligations once in a while. Sift through the list below, pull up a hammock, and enjoy a literary sideshow.
In Search Of Captain Zero – Allan Weisbecker
“In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, Patrick, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Patrick’s disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend.”
Barbarian Days – William Finnegan
“Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.”
Welcome To Paradise Now Go To Hell – Chas Smith
“Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime.”
All For A Few Perfect Waves – David Rensin
“For twenty years, Miki “Da Cat” Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers’ imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing’s sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him “the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce” and Vanity Fair called him “a dark prince of the beach.” To fully capture Dora’s never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora’s friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing’s most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.”
Surf Is Where You Find It – Gerry Lopez
“Surf is Where You Find It is a collection of 41 stories, some only a page or two long, some six or seven pages, but all told with Gerrys sharp eye for capturing the eccentric essence of both some of the least-known as well as the best-known legends of the sport.”
Soul Surfer – Bethany Hamilton
“In this moving personal account of faith and fortitude, internationally ranked surfer Bethany Hamilton tells how she survived a shark attack that cost her arm–but not her spirit.”
North Shore Chronicles – Bruce Jenkins
“In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii’s North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area’s elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii’s deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.”
Surfing’s Greatest Misadventures – Stories By Multiple Authors
“The true stories in this one-of-a-kind collection cross the spectrum from terrifying to comical to downright bizarre. Prepare yourself for the most gripping and unbelievable stories about big waves, shark attacks, tsunamis, boating disasters, devastating wipeouts, pranks, and bad judgment calls. These thirty tales, by surf journalists, filmmakers, magazine editors, watermen, and everyday surfers, illuminate the less enchanting aspects of a life committed to surf.”
Just Add Water – Robert Yehling
“Unflinching and inspiring, Just Add Water is a brave memoir from a one-of-a-kind surfing savant who has electrified fans around the world with his gift and whose story speaks boldly to the hope and ultimate triumph of the human spirit.”
The History of Surfing – Matt Warsaw
“Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.”
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featured photo by Jake S.